FAQ
Welcome to the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) page. We use real questions and answers here (some of which have been shortened to get to the point), so you may just be able to find one you can really relate to!
Q: Note- Reading a TSB for 2000-2002LS( which shares the same DCCV),lack of cooling due to DCCV( 03-3-4),it states if you measure the resistance of the soleniod, it shud be between 13-20 ohms.
A: Solenoid resistance measurements of 13-20ohms, or less, should be reasonable. However, measuring the resistance of the solenoid may not have much meaning by itself. Unless that solenoid (coil of wire) is physically broken/disconnected, you’d essentially be measuring the resistance of a just that — a coil of wire. Because it is an inductive-resistive load, you must also measure its current while energized. I’ve seen current measurements in good DCCVs range from 0.6 to no more than 0.9A per side. I’ve seen bad ones measure as low as 1.1A (on 12.0V) to as high as 6.5A (on 14.0V). That 6.5A solenoid still opened and closed and acted like everything was fine, but it was attached to a stand-alone power supply on our test bench. No CCM could handle that level of current without damage.
So, to find out of a DCCV is electrically OK, take those current measurements. This can be on the bench with a separate power supply, or, if it’s still in the car, you can jumper the LH or RH pin to Chassis Ground with the meter while listening for the solenoid clicks.
Q: The air comes out cool on the passenger side, but it’s hot on the driver’s side. We haven’t done your recommended diagnosis tests yet. Is it OK for us to send you the climate control module anyway?
A: Although it is best if you can perform the tests shown in the DIY: Diagnose It Yourself section, you may still send in your unit for inspection. FYI, about 20% of the units we receive turn out to be good.
Q:My air con blows warm and humid (but not hot) through all the vents. It was cold last year, but just gradually got worse in the last 6 months! Is my climate control module defective?
A:Check your A/C refrigerant (134a) pressures. Make sure they are filled to the proper levels. Also check for A/C compressor operation, condensor/radiator fan operation, refrigerant leakage, receiver/drier condition and expansion valve condition, contamination, etc. A qualified automotive service shop with a refrigerant recovery/recycling machine should be able to help you with this service.
Q: My a/c has not been workin for quite some time now. The dealer told me to change the temp control valve and the control module which will cost me every bit of 3000.00. I’ve replaced the temp control valve with no effect to the a/c. I read one of your posting stating that you are able to repair my control module for a fraction of the cost. If this is so, please advise on what I need to do to get my module to you and how much it will cost. Thank you for your time.
A: [Long story short, this customer's module was sent in to us for repair, and now the customer is enjoying cold A/C again!]
Q: I need a little advice with something. I have the notorious climate control issue with my Jag that spawned from the engine over heating and then now that I had that repaired but now my a/c does not work. I had it diagnosed by the dealer and it is the climate control that is causing the valve not to close and forcing the unit to blow non stop heat. They gave me a quote of $3200 for the repair. Is there anyway that I can avoid paying that price or can you suggest a used parts place to find this part? Also, is there a difference between the climate control unit on the Type R and the regular S-Type? Thanks in advance for your help.
A: When the CCM doesn’t send proper signal to the valve, the default mode of the valve is to not close, which lets the hot coolant flow into the heater core, thus causing your a/c to blow hot no matter what. Your dealer is right about the default mode. The most probable reason for the CCM being broken in the first place is that the valve is becoming defective and is drawing too much current (good units will use about 0.6-0.7 Amps per valve, but defective ones will use from 1.5 to 4.5Amps per valve, which is too much for the CCM to handle). It is best to replace the valve at the same time the CCM is repaired. The valve can be purchased for under $200, but it takes a while to replace, so I would expect some 4-6 hours of labor charge. There are different CCM versions, but it’s not a Type R vs. regular issue. It’s a nav-equipped vs. non-nav issue. The non-nav version has the CCM integrated inside the main climate controls housing, whereas the nav-equipped CCM is in a separate housing.
Q: When you do your work, do you actually test the CCM first to see if it actually is defective—and was that the case with mine?
A: This is an outline of what we do for every CCM or RCCM we work on:
1. Unit powered on, but not opened, for a functional test to verify existence of problem.
2. Unit housing opened, circuit board removed, for visual inspection of burned components and traces.
3. Functional test of individual components, to check for non-visible damage. – Yes, non-visible damage can and does happen!
4. Repair and upgrade. – Very proprietary, top secret, and conforming to extremely high standards of course!
5. Take photos to document the completed repair and upgrade.
6. Unit assembled then powered on, for a functional test to verify resolution of problem.
7. Apply JaguarClimateControl.com sticky label of approval, with the customer’s name and date of label application.